Travel journal
by Miguel Buenrostro
In the midst of the Northern Sierra of Oaxaca, the Mixe mountains pierce the sky, a symphony unfolds with the rising sun. At 6:00 in the morning, melodies cascade down from the mountains, guiding the children of Santa María Tlahuitoltepec from their houses to the municipal music school. Here, along the wind and the whispers of the forest, musical worlds are planted amongst the young.
Throughout the day, the air in “Tlahui” is alive with the rhythm of brass bands, resonating through every corner of the town. Even as Miles Davis's trumpet reverberates through the hallowed halls of Marcelo's bar, known locally as tsakpaak, the natural acoustics of the mountains amplify every note, transforming a kind of Sierra Hi-fidelity.
Indeed, 'Tlahui' is more than just a mountain village—it is a veritable amphitheater of sound, where nature's sound meets the intricate melodies of the people. My journey to Tlahui was guided by friend and musician Facundo Vargas, affectionately known as "Kunt". A musician well known in Oaxaca and Mexico City for his improvisational practice. Kunt introduced me to the vibrant sounds that define life in the northern Mixe Mountains. It was through him that I witnessed a place where tradition and innovation converge in musical creation.
One of the highlights of my time in Tlahui was the opportunity to witness rehearsals by the explosive band "Los Pream'', in which Kunt himself plays the trombone. Born out of a desire to explore the uncharted realms of improvisation, Los Pream represent a bold new frontier in the musical landscape of the Sierra de Oaxaca. Their debut album, "Lëkïxï Ëjts", recorded over three days in an old adobe house nestled within the heart of their community, is a testament to their unwavering dedication to their craft.
With each track, Los Pream invites listeners on a journey through the richness of musical Mixe culture, blending elements of funk, Balkan, and jazz with the time-honored traditions of their ancestors. It is a celebration of diversity, a symphony of voices that speaks to the soul of Tlahui and beyond.
As the sun sets on another day in Tlahui, I am reminded of the timeless beauty of this place, where music is more than just a sound—it is a way of life. And as I bid farewell I carry with me the acoustics of the sierra.
More artists
Los Pream consists of:
Vladimir Medina (Keytar)
Konk Balam (guitar)
Mario Rubén Cardoso (trumpet)
Andrés Vargas (trumpet)
Facundo Vargas (trombone)
Oscar Martínez (tuba)
Jonás Uriel (drums)